Beaume & Mercier Capeland XXL
INTRODUCTION
The Formula S was my first introduction to Beaume & Mercier sports watches. It was a very unique dive watch, which borrowed very little from its competition. It was quite thin and had one of the supplest bracelets I have ever tried. Unfortunately, the Formula line was discontinued the mid-nineties and it was not until a couple of years ago that a new diver emerged. The Capeland S is just as uniquely styled as its predecessor, though in my opinion, it is not a true “tool” dive watch. I feel that its design lies more along the lines of a sporty everyday watch that can be worn while swimming or in any other rigorous activity, yet elegant enough for the boardroom. But why neglect the true diver’s watch aficionado? Hum…
I am starting to believe that there is a method to Beame & Mercier’s madness. With the launch of the new Capeland XXL super dive watch this last spring, I can safely say that even the most demanding divers are going to be pleased. With its high-contrast dial, super-sized hands and high-tech materials, it is a serious tool!
2 METALS ARE BETTER THAN ONE
I think it is safe to say that this is the largest Beaume & Mercier sport watch ever made. At 44mm in diameter and nearly 16mm to the top of the domed crystal, it surprisingly wears much more comfortably than its measurements would lead you to believe. I am sure this has something to do with the material used for the case, which happens to be titanium. I have never been a big fan, but it does have its endearing qualities. It is hypoallergenic, lightweight and it is less temperature sensitive than stainless steel, therefore it rarely feels cold or warm to the touch. The disadvantages are that it is significantly less scratch resistant than steel and its tinge is somewhat dull. This is where the XXL stands out from the pack. Taking into account what I have just stated, Beaume & Mercier has chosen to use brushed stainless steel for the bezel. Which gives it a very pleasing contrast with the case and makes the part of the watch most susceptible to getting dinged much more resistant. It is quite ingenious and I wonder why no one has thought of this combination before.
The titanium finish is bead-blasted adding to its discreteness, with the exception of the gas escape valve at 9 o’clock, which looks like steel, though I cannot confirm. The thick lugs are also surprising and sport equally thick screw bars for added security. These strap fasteners even have their own gaskets, but fragile they definitely are. The ones on this test subject disintegrated when I attempted a strap change. One does wonder why gaskets were there in the first place.
The case back is screwed down as can be imagined, though it almost looks as if it is a one-piece case. With a 1000m-depth rating, I almost expected it to be. It appears to lack the necessary indentations needed for a standard case back opener; instead it features Rolex style groves. However, they do not look as sharp and I somewhat wonder if it can be removed without damaging the finish. Engraved in a frost kind of finish are the Beame & Mercier name, logo and serial number. The crown guards are rather subtle, yet they curve almost completely around the crown. Though you need not worry, there is enough bite on the crown itself to make it extremely easy to operate. Maybe even too much bite. I could feel it on the back of my wrist at times and I can see it eventually irritating me. This is not that big a problem; I once owned a watch with similar properties and quickly developed immunity. It is just a matter of getting used to the feeling. Just like the case back, the crown is generously signed with the B&M logo.
CONTRASTING CLARITY
The heavily domed sapphire crystal is quite impressive indeed, especially at angles. It gives the dial an immeasurable depth, which is really neat, and combined with the anti-reflective coating on the under side, it is truly a pleasure to stare through. As stated previously, the bezel is mainly made of brushed stainless, with occasional bead-blasted surfaces. It also features incredibly sharp edges, which offers wet and/or gloved hands ease of operation. Its dividing chapters are identified at 5-minute increments, with the exception of the first 15 minutes, which are at 1-minute intervals. I would have preferred 1-minute graduations all the way around, but this is acceptable and the execution is very well balanced. I do however love the feel; rotating at half-minute increments, it is superbly accurate and reassuring.
The dial itself is made of yellow Kevlar fiber, which gives it a very distinctive look and to my surprise it is not as flashy as I expected. The contrast between the black nickel hands, applied markers and the yellow dial is simply spectacular. Also applied is the minute chapter wring, which is tastefully executed in mat black. The super-oversized hands and markers are generously coated with Luminova, which glows efficiently for up to 6 hours on a minimal charge. The date is located at 3 o’clock and is gray, almost silver writing on a black background. A nice attempt at keeping it discreet, but I would have preferred it at 6 o’clock in order to counter-balance the giant B & M logo at twelve. The words Beaume & Mercier Geneve, 1000m and Automatic can also be found on the dial, as well as Swiss Made on the chapter wring.
POWERED BY ETA
The movement found in this behemoth is the ever popular, tried and tested ETA 2892/A2. It is the same base caliber that is found in the Seamaster Professional, the Ulysse Nardin 1846 Marine Chronometer and even the IWC Aquatimer. You have to admit, it is in pretty good company.
Measuring a slender 25.6mm in diameter and only 3.6mm in height, one has to wonder what a watchmaker thinks when he stares down at such a humongous watch with such a tiny movement. You know what they say, “it’s not the length of the balance shaft, but the precision of the escapement that counts”, and so I have been told. Other features include Incabloc shock protection, a Navirox 1 main spring and a Glucydur balance. It beats at a constant 28,800-pulsations/hour and house 21 jewels.
Unfortunately, details about its finishing were unavailable at the time, therefore I cannot comment, but I can discuss its performance. So far, our test subject has been very consistent, gaining a meager 1 sec/day, far exceeding my expectations.
RUBBER VS. KEVLAR
Two straps are provided with this watch. One in black Kevlar, with yellow stitching and a tang buckle and the other in supple rubber and flexi fit clasp. The latter is quite unorthodox in design and is a tad confusing at first, well maybe even at second glance too. It is extremely long; it can be adjusted at two different places and folds over twice, which makes it quite bulky. It is rather difficult to explain how it operates; hopefully the picture(s) can help. It is definitely for professional use, I just cannot see anyone wearing this combination on a regular basis.
The Kevlar strap is remarkable. I especially like way the ends conform to the case. Though as impressive as it is, it is still very stiff, but this is not entirely a bad thing. Once curved and fastened to your wrist it is very comfortable and its stiffness keeps the watch head from moving to an awkward spot. The ends fitting the case are extremely thickly padded and taper down towards the buckle. The back is lined in yellow leather, which surely helps in the comfort department. The stainless steel buckle is equally nice, but I do wonder why they chose to polish it. The rest of the watch is brushed and bead blasted, why not put a mat/dull finish on the buckle as well?
MELLOW YELLOW
Beaume & Mercier has successfully created a contemporary styled dive watch that not only offers impressive tool-like features and a great mix of materials, but also is quite fun to wear. Its yellow dial, large size and domed crystal really get noticed. So far everyone who’s seen it loves it, heck, even non-dive watch people admire it!
I have to admit, I was a little skeptical at first. I was not entirely convinced Beaume & Mercier could pull off a serious tool watch. I am glad to see my skepticism was unjustified. Other than the funky rubber strap, which I just cannot seem to comprehend, everything else is as home in the sea as a white tipped shark.
Thanks for reading,
Marc
