RGM 150
INTRODUCTION
United Sates native Roland G. Murphy had a dream. It began in the late 1980s when he was working in product development for a large Swiss watch company. Disillusioned with large watch companies churning out mediocre quality products, his dream was to create his own brand of high-end watches and to rave reviews. In 1993, that dream came true. Today, Mr. Murphy’s watches are highly respected by serious watch connoisseurs worldwide.
"I make watches I like, and I hope other people like them", Mr. Murphy says. " Because RGM is small, each watch has its own special appeal - - not just a commodity pumped out of a factory that changes ownership every five years. I may not have a 150 year history with a famous name, but I have the highest quality watches in each price range compared to others."
We are very fortunate to have the opportunity to review the newest watch in the RGM pilot line, the RGM 150. It is a large size pilot’s watch with a traditional pocket watch movement. So new in fact, that our review subject is the prototype! Production is underway and its scheduled release is for mid-February 2002.
THEY SAY ONIONS ARE GOOD FOR YOU
The proficiently polished stainless steel case measures 42mm in diameter, 10mm thick and 52mm from lug to lug. The relative thinness is due to the fact that this watch does not have a rotor, therefore eliminating a few millimeters. The entire case is polished to a mirror finish, even between the lugs. The tiny bezel measures only 3mm wide, which adds tremendous width of the dial. This watch appears even bigger then it actually is. The rather large onion shaped crown is a pleasure to wind. It measures 7mm in diameter and sticks out 4mm from the case. The onion style is reminiscent of fabulous watches of yesteryear, a nice touch. Unfortunately, it does not screw-down, but this is not abnormal for this style of watch.
Its screw down back assures water resistance to a depth of 50m and capably displays its wonderful inner workings. Unlike the rest of the case, the stainless steel surrounding the display glass is brushed and not polished. The following markings are engraved around the sapphire display: REF. 150 – 1601 – 42MM – THREADED BEZEL – RGM. At first, I questioned the reasoning behind the words “threaded bezel” on the rear, though after hearing the answer, it makes quite a bit of sense. The reasoning behind those words is to warn an eventual watchmaker, who might be servicing the wristwatch, that the bezel is screwed down and not to pry it off. The lugs are slightly curved to fit the wearer’s wrist and are 22mm apart, which might make finding replacement straps a bit difficult, but not impossible. Even the finish between the lugs is exquisitely executed, funny how so many watch companies neglect this area, but not RGM.
WHAT A DIAL
The flat sapphire crystal that covers the dial measures a whopping 36.5mm in diameter, as large as many watches! This makes it one of the most legible watches I’ve ever had the pleasure to evaluate. Its railroad style minute track is very attractive and yet another reminder of military style pilot watches of old. The dial also features large Arabic numerals, with an oversized second sub dial nibbling on the 7 and 5 numerals. Many people do not like oversized sub dials, but I for one am in favor for them and I find it lends itself very well to this type of watch. The vintage style hour and minute hands are also reminiscent of days gone by and are a total contrast to the high tech Luminova material that helps them glow all night. The same high tech substance is found on all the hour markers surrounding the dial. Keeping in mind that sometimes less is more, only the words RGM PROFESSIONAL can be found on the dial, simple, yet classy. Though I have misgivings about the use of the word professional, but in this case it is acceptable. Just like many vintage pilot watches, the date is nowhere to be found. After all, when flying an airplane, the date should be the least of your worries.
TIC TOC JUST LIKE A CLOCK
Listening to this watch tic is as pleasurable as listening to an old grandfather clock. Unlike many watches today, this one tics at a rate of 18,000 alternations per hour, a full 10,000 less than most contemporary wristwatches. Even though this sounds like a flaw, let me assure you it isn’t. RGM has gone to great lengths to make this watch as accurate as can be.
This caliber is based on the Unitas 6498 pocket watch movement, but unlike the standard issue, this one has a completely upgraded regulator system, a Trevois regulator to be precise. This new regulator and balance with screws allows this movement to be finely regulated. Together these two components are responsible for more then 50% of the cost of the total caliber. Not to mention that the balance used on this caliber is not available from ETA. Also, the hairspring has a traditional stud with a screw to hold it to the regulator, many watchmakers prefer this to the regular etachron system.
Here are the basic characteristics for this caliber. It measures 36.6mm in diameter and 4.5mm thick. It houses 17 jewels and as previously stated it runs at a rate of 18,000 alternations per hour. It has a total power reserve of 46 hours and has an incablock shock resistance system.
Our review subject has a gold finish to the movement. The production series of the Pilot 150 will have a rhodium plated stainless steel finish instead, just like all the other RGM wristwatches. There will also be engraving on the plates, where as this watch does not. Like this watch, the production series will have blued screws, the Geneva wave pattern and circular graining on the base plate. Unfortunately, I did not have the opportunity to fully test its precision, but so far it is running at a respectable -5 seconds/day. Not bad for a watch that has yet to be fully regulated.
N.B. This kind of movement is also referred to as a Savonette or Hunter, which are common references for pocket watch movements with stems at 3 o’clock and sub seconds at 6.
ONCE AGAIN WITH CARBON FIBRE
Funny how such a modern substance like carbon fibre can look so good on a vintage style watch. The band supplied to us is a Hirsch Carbon Sport strap, not actual carbon fibre, but leather woven to look like carbon fibre. It is highly water resistant, supple and has a thin rubber lining to make the contact with the wrist as smooth as possible. I myself have one of these straps as a spare and love it very much. Although I was told that another kind of strap will be supplied for the production series, this can be a very interesting accessory. Our review subject was offered with a tang buckle, though I am certain a deployant clasp will be available as an option. As well as a full stainless steel bracelet with double folding clasp, screws for link adjustment and solid end links. I have seen pictures of the bracelet and I am quite impressed, this will be the first RGM wristwatch to be available on bracelet.
FINAL ANALYSIS
In a world of large watches, it was about time RGM came up with their own, but as the saying goes, good things come to those who wait. By far this is one of the most impressive Unitas movements used today. Not only is it modified for appearance; it is also modified for performance. Designed to look like a vintage pilot’s watch of yesteryear, created with tomorrow’s technology. If you are looking for a retro style watch with fine regulating capabilities and plenty of refinement, then this is the watch for you.
Thank you for reading,
Marc
