Hamilton Avigation Chronograph

INTRODUCTION

The Hamilton brand name reminds most aficionados of exquisite early 20^th century pocket watches and funky asymmetric 1950’s electric timepieces. Today’s Hamilton Watch Company is as focused on tradition as it is on innovation. Now part of the Swatch Group, Hamilton is one of the first companies to take advantage of the new Valjoux 7753 movement, which was introduced at last year’s Basel Fair. This new caliber aligns the chronograph sub-dials in the classic tri-compax formation (9-6-3), which is considered to be more appealing by collectors. The Hamilton Khaki Aviation is a generously proportioned pilot inspired chronograph, styled from yesteryear, with tomorrow’s technology.

 

OBJECTS ON WRIST ARE LARGER THAN THEY APPEAR

How do you make a 44mm watch look even larger than its measurements? Simple, you make the bezel only 3mm wide and voila! At first glance you cannot help be feel a little overwhelmed by the Aviation’s generous proportions, but the feeling quickly subsides once it is strapped on. As stated the diameter is 44mm, it is 15mm thick and 55mm from lug to lug, while this may sound discouraging to most, I can safely say that it looks terrific on my 7-inch wrist, though it is stretching the limit of what I find acceptable.

The entire case is made of brushed stainless steel with the exception of the back, which is polished and adorned with a display portal. Unlike many watches, the lugs, case and bezel all appear to share the same surface, a very attractive characteristic, which is shared by many of new Hamilton watches.

The signed crown does not screw-down, though it is signed and to stay in character, it is charitably proportioned at 7mm in diameter and protruding 4mm from the case. The 9mm wide pushers are rectangular, which make them very easy to operate and they feel very reassuring when depressed. On the other side of the case at 10 o’clock you will also find a tiny flush mounted pusher. In order to modify/alter the Valjoux 7750 movement to display its sub dials at 9-6-3, the date changing mechanism was removed from the crown and is now activated by that pusher.

 

CRYSTAL, CRYSTAL ON THE WATCH…

The enormous domed crystal measures 39mm across, and does not appear to have any anti-reflective coating. Since the crystal is not flat, reflections are quite manageable and are less of a nuisance than expected. The mat black dial itself is so large that even with a tachymeter, 3 sub-dials, Arabic numerals and a date display it still seems uncluttered. All of the dial script is printed in a metallic beige color, which mimics the steel used for the hands, a very retro look, which lends itself well to the design. Another throwback design element is the twin contrasting sub-dials found at 9 and 3 o’clock. They are also larger than the 3^rd one at 6 o’clock. The configuration is as follows; constant seconds at 9, minute totallizer at 3 and hour totalizer at 6 o’clock.

The date display is also found at 6 o’clock, though I very much dislike the fact that it cuts into the chronograph’s hour markers, thus making chronograph readings quite difficult to interpret at a glance. Additionally, white writing on a black background would have been a more appealing choice, yet the font style is perfect. I also find the sub dial hands a tad on the thin side, but they are still effective. The luminous substance used is perfectly white, with absolutely no hint of green or any other color. I absolutely adore this minute detail and I often wonder why you do not see this more often. The hour and minute hands are large enough, as well as long enough; while at the same time do not cover up too much of the chronograph information. Luminescence lasts a good 5-6 hours when charged for 20-30 seconds under as a regular 60 watt bulb.

 

VAL-WHO?

No other movement is utilized as widely as the Valjoux (ETA) 7750 and it is not without reason. It is one of the most affordable, durable and accurate chronograph movements on the market. However, many purists find the sub dial configuration lopsided and unbalanced. Some watch companies have been modifying it to feature the sub dials at 9, 6 and 3 o’clock, but this is a costly modification and those costs are often past on to the consumer.

ETA recognized the demand for a more “balanced” sub dial configuration and created a new version of this infamous movement. Designated Valjoux (ETA) 7753. In order for them to make the proper changes they needed to modify the date mechanism. On this version they use an ETACHRON index assembly, which requires an additional push-piece for instant date correction. Therefore the crown is only pulled out to set the time.

This mechanical chronograph cam movement, equipped with three push buttons, has a frequency of 28 800 V/h (4 Hz) and an automatic, unidirectional, ball bearing winding mechanism. It offers the following functions in addition to hours, minutes and small seconds: 60-second chronograph in the center, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and 12-hour accumulator at 6 o’clock, plus a date window also at 6. The flush mounted date correcting push-button is located at 10 o’clock. Its measurements are 30mm in diameter, with a height of 7.9mm and it also houses 27 jewels.

The movement finish is rudimentary, with the exception of the rotor, which etched with the Hamilton name and jewel count. So far this sample has been keeping a reasonable +4 seconds/day. 

 

TAPERED STEEL

The solid bracelet measures 22mm in diameter and 4.5mm thick at the lugs and tapers down to 20mm in diameter and 3.5mm thick at the clasp. This 2 dimensional tapering makes it quite comfortable without sacrificing any of its weight dispensing properties, in fact when worn the load of the entire watch is quite evenly distributed. The links are adjusted via split pins, which are secured under pressure. The solid end links that meet the case are perfectly molded to fit the lugs, though they do look enormous.

The clasp is impressive, with twin push-button release and solid folding mechanism, but it needs some refinement. The exterior is rough and there is quite a bit of play when closed. You get the impression it will pop open, but rest assured it is quite secure, even when one of the two buttons is depressed accidentally.

 

CONCLUSION

Simply put, at this price point, you would be hard pressed to find another watch packed with as many substantial features. The Hamilton Aviation stretches the limit of value while at the same time taking advantage of the latest in ETA technology. If you are looking for a large pilot watch, with a traditional dial from one of history’s most prolific manufacturers, you should seriously consider this one. It oozes tradition; while at the same time breathes innovation.

The Hamilton Aviation retails for $1075.00 on stainless steel bracelet and $995.00 on padded leather strap. For more information on Hamilton watches, you can visit their website at www.hamiltonwatch.com or for a detailed look at Hamilton’s rich history, please pick-up InSync’s January/February 2004 issue. 

 

Thank you for reading,

Marc